The behemoth that is December in the Philippines had descended on Makati like a tidal wave. Cars rolled doggedly down EDSA and Ayala Avenue, bumper-to-tailgate, like an insuperable lava flow. Every shopping mall was seething with excited shoppers walking four abreast and laden like ships of the desert with bags and parcels. Christmas muzak was emanating with exuberant enthusiasm from every sound system in the city, that left my nerves a-frazzle and a–flutter. We needed to escape from the mayhem to refresh and re-energize before the family descended for the holidays.
But where to go? We didn’t want a long journey or a large hotel, just a small oasis of calm for a momentary breather. And we found it, quite by chance on Facebook: the soft opening of the new Henry Hotel in Pasay. And would you believe it? It was only eleven minutes away from home according to Google Maps. Although I suspect that estimated travel time was not taking the Christmas season traffic into account!
The Henry opened its large iron gate in mid December, just a hop, skip and a jump from Manila Bay. The first Henry Hotel in Cebu is an eye catching mix of ‘European, vintage, industrial and rustic’ elements; a slightly bizarre, definitely eclectic and doubtless unique combination. The Manila version is in a totally different style. Originally a compound of four houses on about half an acre, these houses have been restored with understated elegance and decorated with 1930s furniture. As the website says, The Henry is “a delightful surprise” hidden behind a high wall, a real refuge from the fumes and the frantic bustle of jeepneys, taxis, trucks and tricycles.
We were ushered in by smiling staff, and checked in efficiently before being escorted up the polished wooden staircase to our room. Our bedroom was spacious, the bathroom capacious, and separate (not always the case), and the little touches of individuality were attractive. I especially liked the ‘made in the Philippines’ woven recycled
paper tissue-box and matching waste paper basket. Our balcony overlooked the broad lawn scattered with leafy trees, and the small, but prettily landscaped swimming pool. It would have been lovely to have a comfortable deck chair, or 
wrought iron table and chairs on which to sit out and enjoy the peaceful ambiance.
The soft opening included a discount price while they took the time to iron out any glitches. Not that we suffered
from many such glitches, apart from the lack of outdoor furniture and an operating bar. With such a lovely broad veranda overlooking the pretty gardens and the generous expanse of lawn, a G&T under the stars would have been a welcome addition. Luckily it was an easy taxi ride – mere minutes – to Mall of Asia, Malate or one of the plethora of new casinos in the area, in order to track down a good meal and a beer.
When we first arrived, mid-afternoon, we were keen to stretch our legs, so we took a walk down to the bay and along the broad pedestrian footpath beside Roxas Boulevard, past the Cultural Centre of the Philippines and the Metropolitan Museum,to the Diamond Hotel. There we watched a number of wedding parties gather in the lobby in all the bright and vibrant colours of tropical birds. It is not the most salubrious stroll amongst the heavy traffic fumes on the Boulevarde, past cheap bars and beggars, building sites and road works, but the breeze was welcome, the sun was shining on the sea, and the G&T at the end was well worth the effort.
Meanwhile, back at The Henry, the staff was helpful, friendly and amusingly decked out in matching pairs of large black glasses – frames only – apparently a quirk of the owner. The pool area, at the top of the lawn is attractive but lacked sunbeds, chairs or tables the weekend we were there, which will hopefully be rectified by the time the hotel opens officially. The rooms apparently have free WiFi access, but we had left technology behind on purpose, the better to switch off from the outside world. The hotel website also says they can provide a complimentary shuttle service to SM Mall of Asia and Glorietta Mall, but I am guessing that this was not yet in place for the soft opening, as we had to wait almost half an hour for a taxi. No problem, the veranda was cool, quiet and relaxing, and gave us a chance to chat with fellow guests about their impressions of Manila. O and by the way, there is also free parking at the front of the property, so there is no need to wait for transport at all, and next time we will take our car.
So we had a great evening at the Solaire Casino, listening to a group of beautifully turned out carol singers by the waterfall, as we sipped our cocktails, before dining at the Italian restaurant Finstra with its stunning chandeliers and its astoundingly extensive – and expensive – wine list. (The food was fabulous too and the chefs in the open kitchen just lovely).
Our room was really comfortable and we emerged mid-morning for breakfast in the cosy little dining room off reception after enjoying an early morning cup of tea in our room. Breakfast was tasty and well presented, with plenty of choices, including a beautiful cooked omelette. The staff was cheery and efficient, and we were delighted to discover at the end of the meal that my beloved Apartment 1B has the restaurant concession and the waiting staff recognized us from the Rockwell outlet. Truly a home away from home. We returned to Makati much calmer and ready for the onslaught of Christmas with renewed energy. Thanks to The Henry for providing such a timely escape.
* Photos courtesy of my One & Only, with thanks.