As you have probably realized by now, I really enjoy dining at Enderun College’s Restaurant 101, and there has been a number of lunches, dinners, wine tastings and coffee mornings over the past two years. A recent visit for a wine matching dinner, however, has been one of the most memorable evening I have ever spent there.
Partly, I should say, because I got to go on a lovely date with my One & Only, and also because restaurant manager M. Gérald Savigny had organized a fabulous four course dinner with matching wines of various styles, but all based on the red and white Pinot grape. Originally the grape of Burgundy, it can be unpredictable, but is now revered by winemakers for making some of the best wines in the world.
The food, as always, was exquisitely turned out, and the wines were all interesting choices that inspired some heated conversations between my husband and me. Of course the more we sipped the more astute and verbose we became! But back to the beginning…
We were greeted at the door with a welcoming smile and the prompt arrival of an aperitif: a glass of Gancia Pinto di Pinot Spumante. This is a popular and zippy little Italian sparkling wine, with all the requisite fizz and bubble to begin the evening with a sense of celebration.
We were seated at a table beside an impressive wine display, and the menus had been printed out on elegantly embossed cards. I always love a set menu, as I so enjoy the luxury of not having to leaf back and forth through a vast menu, trying to decide what I feel like. And I can always rely on the chefs at 101 to provide something deliciously enticing.
Our entrée was a dainty Snail Torte that consisted of a pastry biscuit spread thickly with sweet tomato marmalade, and topped with garlic butter escargots imported from Burgundy. We were unexpectedly delighted with these small, smooth, al dente escargots, with the texture of champignons and only a light hint of garlic. The snails were served with an Australian 2011 Yalumba Y Series Pinot Grigio. It was a beautiful match. The wine was refreshingly dry, with a crisp finish, the allusion to the fruity flavours of apple and pear nonetheless held their own against the subtle touch of garlic in the snails.
The main course was announced: roasted duck breast served with steamed broccoli and a ‘Jenga’ block of polenta, garnished with fresh blood orange and topped with a delicious gastrique sauce. Although unfortunately misspelled on the menu as gastric, it is not actually stomach juices, but a very simple, French, sweet and sour sauce made from a vinegar or citrus juice and honey. It is usually served with chicken but in this case the combination of sweet and sour complimented the duck perfectly. A little extra sauce on the side would have been welcome, as there was a generous amount of duck, but only a smidgen of sauce. It was accompanied by a 2010 Argentinian Trapiche Broquel Pinot Noir.
My husband and I argued boisterously about that wine. We both agreed that it was youthful and slightly acidic (almost antiseptic in my opinion) but the One & Only thought it made a good contrast to the gamey taste of the duck. I would have preferred a more full-bodied, rounder pinot noir, however, to compliment the richness of the duck rather than fighting it.
A soft, fresh local goat’s cheese (imagine the texture of mozzarella) was served on a strip of toast with truffle honey and some wafer thin radish to garnish. It was accompanied by a 2011 New Zealand Pinot Noir, St. Clair’s Vicar’s Choice. According to our host, goat’s cheese is traditionally served with Pinot Noir in his home town in the Loire Valley. I loved the wine, but found it a little strong for the more delicate flavour of the local cheese – although I can understand how well it would accompany a stronger, aged French chèvre. (Amusingly, this is the one I would have preferred with the duck). When we discussed it with M. Savigny he suggested that I might prefer a lighter Sauvignon Blanc with the cheese, which proved an excellent recommendation.
Our dessert was a large helping of pear crumble, just like my mother used to make, and it came with an Australian Angas Brut Sparkling Rosé. It was an unusual idea, but the nutty, yeasty flavours in both were a good match. We both felt that the crumble needed a scoop of vanilla ice cream to complete it, and luckily, our kind waitress was happy to oblige us.
Then we merrily headed homewards, replete with beautiful food and definitely oversubscribed on wine, quite in agreement that wine tasting is a highly subjective sport.