It is fourteen years since I first met David Peabody; fourteen years since I sipped my first Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc; and fourteen years since I first wrote an article about this inspirational family-owned winery. Since then, Craggy Range wines have continued to develop and mature, and this iconic winery is now considered one of New Zealand’s best.
I got to know David Peabody, his family, and the Craggy Range wines rather well over the next few years, often gathering for a casual BBQ in their tropical Manila garden, for a party at our 39th floor apartment overlooking Manila’s Pasig River, or at a favourite restaurant that sold Craggy Range wines. But it was not until this month that I finally managed to fulfill a long held dream to visit the winery.
As we drove down the Waimarama Road from Havelock North, it suddenly became apparent why the winery is called Craggy Range. To our right, the rugged Te Mata hills towered above us, their rocky outline sharply jagged. To our left lay a softer landscape of vineyards and orchards, neatly arranged on the banks of the Tukituki River, tucked beneath the Ruahine Ranges that lie between the river and the sea. Tranquil and remote from the hustle and bustle of city life, the serenity was captivating.
I have told the story before, but to recap…
David Peabody is the son of Brisbane-based entrepreneur, Terry Peabody, the man responsible for establishing the Craggy Range winery in 1998, at the southern end of Hawke’s Bay, on New Zealand’s North Island. It all began in 1993, with a gem of an idea to start both a winery and a family legacy. The idea took hold, and the family joined forces to explore the possibilities.
According to David – and the Craggy Range website – their search for the perfect location took them through Europe, America and Australia, before finally crossing the Tasman Sea to New Zealand. Here, Mr. Peabody Senior found the perfect opportunity to realize the dream, and pioneer some truly elegant wines, with the renowned Master of Wine, Steve Smith. Terry’s only proviso? They would not buy an existing vineyard but would start from scratch. On virgin soil so to speak.
Together, they chose two prime locations: farmland at Gimblett Gravels, an ancient river bed near Havelock North, where they would plant Chardonnay and Syrah grapes, and another piece of farmland in Martinborough with the perfect soil for Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. And so, the legend began.
Today, the Craggy Range cellar door and restaurant is a popular destination for wine connoisseurs and foodies alike, situated in the oldest wine making region of New Zealand. Driving through the impressive gates, we are greeted by the sight of a substantial edifice, a monument to Peabody’s dream to build a legacy he hopes will last a thousand years. The collection of stone buildings includes a wine cellar, a cellar door – more of a tasting venue than a sales area – and a top notch restaurant, ‘Terroir.’
On a more domestic scale, a family of oversized charolais cows now lie on a manicured lawn beside a small the lake. These bronze bovines are the work of acclaimed British sculptor Paul Day, who has been reported as saying that, while the winery can appear imposing, the family grouping ‘softens the experience’.
Wandering into the tasting room, we were greeted by the Wine Experience Manager, Michael Bancks, who offered us a glass of wine, and a table near the window, where we could sit and admire the surroundings before the tour. The One & Only chose a rosé, and although I usually opt for the CR Chardonnay, I decided to revisit their Sauvignon Blanc instead. While I’ve never been a huge fan of Sauvignon Blanc, I do love the Craggy Range version. And, as the 2023 Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc was recently named 11th in the World’s Top 100 wines, I decided it was time to veer from the road most travelled. It was worth the detour. It is indeed a beauty. Glass in hand, we followed Michael through the building, pausing in the chilly wine cellar to admire the neat rows of barrels of their Bordeaux style blend and flagship wine ‘Sophia’.
Apart from wine making, there is also a focus on regenerative farming and providing wild-life corridors through the vineyards. And in 2020, Craggy Range embarked on a project to plant over 100 hectares of native trees on the Martinborough vineyard to improve the biodiversity there, and the quality of the land.
The label beside one photo in the entrance hall states that ‘our ambition is to create wines that comfortably sit alongside the great wines of the world. We were humbled to be included in the Decanters 2015 “worlds best Syrah” tasting, alongside a handful of the world’s most iconic producers.’ In the photo, the Craggy Range 2011 Le Sol stands between a La Landonne and a Penfolds.
Then it was time for dinner.
In 2018, Terroir, the Craggy Range restaurant received 2 chefs’ hats for its top quality food. (Awarded by the Australian Good Food Guide the prestigious ‘hats’ have been given to the best restaurants in Australia and New Zealand since 1982.) The restaurant was also named Winery Restaurant of the Year in the 2020-2021 Cuisine Good Food Awards, in recognition of Head Chef Casey McDonald’s fabulous use of seasonal Hawke’s Bay produce alongside Craggy Range wines.
With such outstanding recognition from our most noted critics, where else were we going to celebrate my birthday, as we travelled through the Land of the Long White Cloud?
We decided on the shared menu – five courses for only $95pp – and our taste buds were indulged beyond belief. I heard someone mention the new Craggy Range ‘Giant’s Estate’ gin. So,‘yes please’ to one of those, garnished with juniper berries and a slice of dehydrated orange. We decided it was safer to skip the wine pairing, or we feared we might have found ourselves sleeping among the vines – which might have proved a cold, damp end to a lovely evening! Our abstinence also allowed us to concentrate on the food.
As we walked into the restaurant – packed to the gunnels even mid-week – we spotted more of Day’s bronze sculptures. This time, it was a family of chooks – or, more specifically, a group of Rhode Island Reds, seven times their natural size, the rooster standing about seven feet tall. And Day was right, they do soften the otherwise formal landscape of the Craggy Range grounds.
Our waiter guided us to our table, at a window overlooking the kitchen. Perched on surprisingly comfortable bar stools, we were introduced to the chef and the waiting staff, who promptly delivered a serve of the extremely moreish potato focaccia, which I could happily have eaten until filled to the brim, but then I would have missed out on several mouth-watering dishes, all created from local produce: from figs with buffalo curd and shiso (a herb from the mint family) to a fresh and zesty ceviche, to roast halloumi with a burnt honey dressing. More than a degustation ‘taster’ but not so large that we quailed at the thought of ever getting through the menu, we were indulged with a toothsome array of tastes and textures. In retrospect, I’m sorry we chose not to savour the matching wines, but then we didn’t really need reminding of how much we enjoy the CR Chardonnay or the glorious Sophia, and the One & Only was perfectly happy with a large glass of CR Riesling while I sipped on my G&T.
The main course was a mouth-watering shoulder of roast lamb, accompanied by crispy roast potatoes and Brussel sprouts, an almond cream and the last of the sugar snap peas from the kitchen garden. Colour, aroma, taste and texture, this dish had it all.
Sadly, dessert proved to be my Waterloo, but I did manage a teaspoon or two of the lemon posset (a cold, creamy dessert, flavoured with lemon), which provided a lovely tangy note on which to finish a truly superb dinner. Dashing through the rain, we both swore we wouldn’t need to eat for a week. At least. But it had been a momentous introduction to the various wine regions of New Zealand where we hope to discover a few new friends and favourites!